I’m a caver, not a spelunker
Monday, March 31st, 2008I’m back in Albuquerque right now, nestled in my hotel room safe and sound. I made it ’round a good portion of the Southern half of the state, and I have to tell you, I’m bruised, sore, and walking like an elderly man.
But damn it, I did some caving this weekend and it was awesome.
I was too exhausted to post yesterday. Two ’strenuous’ tours back to back was a bit much, but I wouldn’t have done it any other way. They are both still rolling around in my head, and I suspect it will be a very long time before I can really tell you how they were. I got into it a little bit in my last post, but as you can tell, it was mostly a physical description.
It’s rough trying to nail down exactly what I learned in the ground on this trip. I suppose I’m jumping the gun a bit by trying to rush through what I’m feeling. But I never want this feeling to end. Ever. And I seriously doubt it ever will.
I woke up pretty early Sunday morning to have a hearty breakfast at the Best Western Stevens Inn in Carlsbad. It’s around a 30 mile drive to Carlsbad Caverns, but with a complimentary buffet in the morning and complimentary high speed internets, I couldn’t be mad about the drive. Mentally, it was also nice to leave the town and drive into the countryside each morning.
I decided to take the Kings Palace guided tour in the morning. It was a walking-only trek, not very far, but you got to see some areas of the caverns that you can’t see on your own. That started at 10am, but I took the elevator down at 8:30am.
Much to my delight, I was the only one in the elevator. Other than one ranger at the bottom, I saw NO ONE for around an hour and a half. I did the big room self-guided tour again, but this time in eerie silence. Literally I felt like I was alone in the cave. No one but me, no sounds but my own and the dripping water. Nothing.
Pure. Clean. Drip-drop.
Several times along the path, I managed to scare myself with my own noises. The thing about a flat rock-face is that it’s a great sound reflector. Near the furthest part of the trail there is a pool called Mirror Lake. The water sounds were coming from every direction, so I reached for my iRiver and recorded a minute or two of them. While trying to put my iRiver back in my bag, my rustling nylon backpack made some noises that bounced off a rock about five feet away and hurled themselves at me.
Imagine it. You’re in a darkened room. It’s humid. The ceiling is nearly a hundred feet or so up. Eerie gothic-like formations surround you. Droplets of water smack your head every now and again. For the last hour the only thing you’ve heard are drops of water, your boots on the path, and your breath. All of the sudden you hear a loud rustling noise coming towards you.
Trust me, you’d be scared too.
After the initial adrenalin-laden jolt of terror, I realized I was the one making those noises. For fun I did it a few times. The lag was barely seconds, but the effect was profound. Thankfully I hadn’t soiled my pants. I was going to be in another cave for another few hours in close company.
After milling around on my own, I took the Kings Palace tour and one of the rangers who tailed our Hall of the White Giant tour, Laura, was tailing this one. It was great to see her again, plus I had the chance to chat with her quite a bit more. She works at Jewel Cave in South Dakota, and I suspect that’s where I’m headed for my next caving experience.
Oh, yeah, speaking of caving, the subject of this post. While it’s in my head, I’ll recount what Keith, the Spider Cave tour guide said (I haven’t talked about Spider yet, but I will shortly. Just don’t wanna forget this.) Someone asked him what the difference was between a spelunker and a caver. As the axiom goes: Cavers are the ones who save spelunkers.
I’m not 100% sure of the truth in this, but ‘cavers’ tend to use that term as a more serious definition. Folks who have gone ‘caving’ are ‘cavers’. Spelunking is the outsiders term. If you’ve never done it, you are more apt to use the terms ’spelunking’ or ’spelunker’. Semantics yes, but each culture has it’s own language. And you know I’m a stickler for languages.
No, I’m nowhere even near an amateur caver yet. Do I intend to become one? Hell yes! I’ve been bitten by the bug in a big way. I don’t know much about the sport, but you can bet that I’m going to learn more and do more.
Speaking of bugs, so my second caving experience was at Spider Cave. Once again, the entrance is a secret so folks don’t go getting in trouble, but we had to drive from the Visitors Center out into the desert some. Then a serious hike down into a valley ensued. I say serious because hiking in a forest (or at least the forests I’ve been to) are generally pretty soft on the foot due to the terrain. Lots of dirt and floor litter as cushion.
Not so much out here. Rocks, rocks, more rocks, spiny cacti, lechuguilla, yucca, and many other oddities you have to deal with. You have to pay attention to every step, much like you do when you are in the cave. None of us were leading the hike, but the ranger also had to keep his eyes and ears open for snakes.
Even when we arrived at the entrance, he had to head in first to check the entrance for snakes. Yes, you read that right. There may, although the chance isn’t very high given how they’ve designed the entrance, be snakes in the cave entrance. If you were an reptile, you’d prolly want to find a cool place to hang out during a hot day too…
Anyway, as we headed in (down a ladder) the crush was on right away. If the squeezes on Saturday were tough, these were downright nasty. I’ll give you an example. You may wish to read this bit then drop to the floor and try it out. Lay yourself down flat. All the way, no arching of the back, hands at your sides, knees on the floor, crotch touching the ground too. Now try to move without raising any of that (because you cannot. There is no room to raise ANYTHING up!) Oh, and keep one ear to the ground as well because your big head won’t fit upright. Has to be sideways.
Are you down there?
Your only choices for locomotion are your feet/toes (heels together now, no room to raise them!), your wrists/hands (elbows down, no room to move them up), and believe it or not your hips. Now picture having to wriggle about six or seven times your body length in that position, over fist sized rubble. No, you can’t really look up (head to the side, remember). No, you can’t really see where you are going (follow the curve of the tiny tunnel you are in). And oh look, there’s a big juicy cricket crossing your path. No room to be scared, it’ll get out of your way.
That’s how you enter Spider Cave. According to the original cavers, the entire tunnel was COATED in daddy long legs when they first entered. Looking up they could see the roof of the slim tunnel pulsating. Naturally, being in such close quarters with them, they fell on your neck, in your shirt, between your glasses and your face, crawling around on your mouth, over your nose, and just about everywhere else they could possibly get to as you entered.
Praise the Lord they aren’t around any more. If they were I seriously do not think I could have made it in. But I did. And I made it out again to tell you about it.
Radically different from the Hall of the White Giant, Spider Cave is known as a maze cave. Named for both the original coating of bugs at the entrance and for the way it branches out into different places, Spider is more crawling, slithering, straddling things, where I think Hall was more climbing, maneuvering, holding on for dear life.
Not that Spider didn’t have it’s share of dark pits and slippery slopes. On more than one occasion in Spider I had to depend on another person to help me over the gaping holes in the ground. And one by one, in turn, we each got to the other side of said chasms, grabbed three stable points of contact, and offered a steady hand to help the next person over.
Climbers know this, but I didn’t until Saturday. When climbing/caving, you must at all times maintain three points of contact for stability (duh, a tripod). Hands or knees or elbows or butt or feet or in extremes, head. Doesn’t matter. Three strong points of contact and you can use whatever is free for to find the forth and free up one of the previous three to move on. Crossing those gaps, for us newbies, someone else had to become part of that tripod.
I didn’t realize it at the time, but that kind of dependency on other people has never been an easy thing for me. I always want to do things on my own. I’m very much type-A big-ego like that. But truly, you cannot be that way in a cave. A big ego has no place down in the earth like that.
We moved through so many chambers, with each one having what looked like four or five different exits. Along the way, Keith (mentioned him earlier) pointed out how cavers tend to name things using the alphabet as a way to remember the path. We passed different formations, each named with a progressive letter of the alphabet. There are many more ways to track your progress inside a cave, but I liked that sort of mnemonic one because it stuck in my head.
With a cave like Spider, there seem to be n number of paths you can choose along every point. So not only naming things in order, but using them as guides to ‘point’ to the right path also helps. For example, there was a cluster of stalactites (hanging ones… they ‘hold tight’) that pointed down to a hole. As the early cavers moved through the cave, they realized the formation pointed to an exit, so they noted it down. We learned tons of things like that as we moved through the cave, most of which I’ve promptly forgotten.
As we backtracked out of Spider and eventually hiked back to our cars, I was kind of sad thinking that the experience was over. The entire trip was really based around these two tours I had planned, and being on the other side of them left me melancholy. I’m still a little depressed I have to head back to Chicago.
The silver lining, and you know I always look for one, is that I do, indeed, feel different. How different? What changed? Well, honestly that part is still foggy. Time will tell.
One thing is for sure. As soon as possible I’m going to schedule my next caving trip. To be completely cheesy, and to quote my favorite Disney movie (laugh if you must, it fits):
I don’t know when
I don’t know how
But I know something’s starting right nowWatch and you’ll see
Someday I’ll be
Part of your world!


















